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Greenfinch

greenfinch Chloris chloris

With the winter is coming feel in the air the bird feeders are alive with birds.  The tits (great, blue, long tail, and coal) seem to be especially abundant this year.  Which on the one hand I love to watch the highly entertaining circus acrobatics from the kitchen window.  On the other hand my car gets parked under this tree – so either it has to be cleaned every time I use it or I rock up to where ever with a white on blue Jackson Pollock paint job.  Which, as you can no doubt imagine, results in glances of shock and awe in the eyes of friends, family and strangers.  Have resorted to pulling a tarp over the poor wee Fiesta when not in use.

Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)
Greenfinch (Chloris chloris)

We have also had the odd VIP guest not least of which was the woodpecker, but more recently we have had a regular visitations by a greenfinch (Chloris chloris).    I was inspired by its beautiful colours, subtle chartreusey greens and grays with a brilliant flash of golden yellow under its wings. NOTE: How impressed was I when I popped out with the camera just now to take above photo of tits on fat balls and the damn thing showed up as if on que! So, after moaning about lack of time in the workshop I spent a happy moment dyeing up some Romney top from  Romney Marsh Wools. More on Romney Marsh Wools in a later post.

 

 

I used a low immersion kettle method and a range of greys, two chartreuse greens and a gold yellow.  I think I used too much water in the kettle and lost the bright yellow splashes I was aiming for.  On the whole though I’m really pleased with the result.  Will definitely be repeating this one.

 

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clematis montana inspired experiment with low immersion kettle dyeing

We have this huge rambling clematis that is busy swamping the woodshed.  Its currently smothered in blossom.  The other evening the sky was actually clear (yipee the cloud was absent), the sun was setting and giving this gorgeous soft light that just sets colours vibrating,  and on this occasion the clematis was just lit up.  I hadn’t noticed how fantastic the colour of the central stamens were, this amazing citrusy yellow green.  Just beautiful against the soft pinks and whites in the petals.  I took this photo (doesn’t do it justice but you get the picture):

Clematis blossom May 2015.
Clematis blossom May 2015.

I was inspired to dye up some roving.  This needed soft soft gentle.  So I went for a low immersion kettle dyeing (short description below).  And, as I wanted to keep colours (pink and green) relatively distinct with little blending (so no browns please!) with some areas of fibre undyed, I was really tight with the dyes.  Just enough.  So happy with the result:

Clematis BFL roving
Clematis BFL roving

I think next time though the green needs a bit more yellow in it and I may have been a bit too tight with the dyes as there is a bit too much undyed fibre for my liking.  But on the up side minimal blending so no browns.  Can’t wait to spin it up.  I don’t have any specific ideas for it yet, so it will go in the stash.

Hey ho, its back into the studio i go as theres more preparing for Ickworth Wool Fair next weekend.  So not ready.

NB. Low immersion kettle dyeing is a technique for multi-coloured dyeing that can give a greater amount of control over where the colours go but can also give some awesome colour blends (or not).  The basic technique is to proceed as for kettle dyeing but the water is kept to a minimum, only a few centimetres, just enough to allow the dye to move through the fibre where it is placed. The more water the more movement of the dye and the greater the blending.  The temperature is kept low, no boiling bubbles allowed!  Colours and shades can be built up by applying dyes in succession to give some really complex and interesting results.  Or a horrible sludgy brown mess if it goes wrong….that could be a great future post “when dyes go bad”…

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Depth of Shade

I’m working on a shawl for my sisters birthday. She loves red. I’ve just dyed up some gorgeous alpaca fibre. I was supposed to be going for a deep vibrant blood red. Hmmm.  Pictures come out pink rather than the salmony red it actually is but you get my point I think. DSC03651 Clearly I messed up! I got my fibre weight wrong – serves me right for not paying attention – which completely messed up my ratios! Oh yes, I’m one of those tedious people who takes the scientific approach to dye stuffs. No longer do I slap in about this much dye for about that much of fibre and see what happens (although I do still do this sometimes because it’s fun).

What I’m talking about specifically in this case is Depth of Shade (DoS). DoS is the intensity of the desired colour you want your fibre. Strong and vibrant or something more pastel or somewhere in between? The main thing is the more dye you use the higher the DoS. So DoS is determined by the ratio of dye to fibre (I’ll do the maths stuff in a bit).

DoS is always talked about in terms of percentages so strong and vibrant will be a higher % and the more pastel you want to go the lower %. The highest DoS is 3%. A good bright colour is generally about 2% DoS. Pastels are achieved at about 0.5% or lower. Here’s my bible when it comes to DoS (ref: Deb Menz’s Color in Spinning Interweave 2005 – awesome reference book):

0.1%  pale pastel

0.2%  medium pastel

0.5%  deep pastel

0.75%  light medium

1%  medium

1.5%  deep medium

2%     deep

2.5%  deeper

3%     very deep (intense)

But, some dyes do not exhaust themselves at >2% DoS (exhaust means when all the dye has been taken up by the fibre and the water is clear, turquoise never seems to exhaust whatever I do, magenta is another one). This means that some dyes can be used at lower % to achieve the desired colour depth. This is good to know, because, if you are like me and like to be as economical in my endeavours as possible (I won’t say cheap) it means that armed with this knowledge this saves on wasting precious dye powder and wasted water/heat and time rinsing out said precious dye down the drain from your gorgeously dyed fibre. And flushing toxic material down the drain is a no no never! Sadly there are no short cuts to knowledge with this one it will have to come with experience of the particular dyes you use (note to self: this is why we keep notes and samples).

I hope that helps? On to the science bit – you can go now if this isn’t going to interest you…

So Dos is determined by the ratio of dye to fibre in grammes or oz. So we can say that 3% DoS = 0.03g dye per 1g fibre. Alternatively, and this is the more likely scenario. “I want to dye Xg of fibre to X% DoS how much dye do I need?” You can work this out by:

Dye weight  = % DoS x weight of fibre

For example,  I’ve got 25g of fibre and I want a good deep red so I’m going to want a 2% DoS:

0.02 * 25g = 0.5g of dye So 0.5g of dye will produce 2% DoS on 25g of fibre. Y

ou will probably be asking how do I do this with spoons, the answer is you don’t if you want to repeat yourself and have good consistent results. I use scales for most of my dyeing. The reason is that different dyes have different densities – this is why some dye colours fill up their packaging containers more than others – you aren’t being cheated it’s just that some dyes are ‘heavier’ than others. With a spoon this means that your measurements will be off – a teaspoon of dye X will be heavier (i.e. it will contain more dye powder in a volume based measure like a teaspoon) than a teaspoon of dye y which is less dense… Put another way one teaspoon of dye X will weigh more than one teaspoon of dye Y.

I should stop now. I’ll come back to this in another post. But, you ask, what about the unred fibre, I’m going to spin it up and then dye it again, this time making sure I got my measurements right. I will let you know how it goes.